After months of gently persuading the missus that Sri Lanka was the next Bali (a long story) we were on a plane to a small island hopefully pack with wildlife.
As we drove south to Mirissa we travelled through the heart of stick fisherman country. Unfotunately it was a bot late in the day for the real fisherman and this is definitely no Steve McCurry shot but it just amuses me that the fisherman are obviously posing for tourists and erect their fishing poles where they don’t have to get their feet wet in order to mount and dismount rather than in the sea where they may actually have a chance of catching something. 
Once in Mirissa we settled in and I went in search of a boat operator. Destination – whale territory, about 30 miles of the southern tip of Sri Lanka. This for me was the most critical part of the trip. With it being March it was the back end of the season for Blue Whales and I was concious that our opportunities were diminishing. Therefore the idea was to get out there during the first day and see what we could see. The second was a contingency day (just in case) and there was always time at the end to take a (huge) detour and have another go.
I booked on a small boat that took up to 8 people and out pickup was 6am. When we arrived at the marina it was clear that we were unique in our quest. We were joined by 4 others and seemed to be the only tourists in a small boat. There were two other loading up with tourists which must have taken 40+ passengers.
After about 45minutes the land had completely disappeared from sight and were definitely now in a very busy shipping lane between South East Asia and the Middle East. It wasn’t long before we had a brief encounter with a Bryde’s Whale. These are fast and unfortunately didn’t hang around for long. Another 30-45 minutes passed whilst we trundled around about 3-4 miles south of the shipping lane. Then, out of what seemed like nowhere, we were joined by a giant.
Blue Whale (balaenoptera musculus)
What I didn’t realise was that a Blue Whale only lift their tail in about 1 in 5 dives. Fortunately we were visited by up to 8 whales that morning (using the tails in the photos as recognition) and we were treated to a few views of flukes as well as an amazing encounter whilst we drifted along with a whale for about 20 minuets before it went on it’s way.
Our encounters with the larger tourist boats were fortunately brief. Every time a whale was spotted they’ve head straight for it, often leading to a shallow dive. Only by sitting tight and letting the larger boats chase another sighting where we able to drift, engines off with a whale whilst it rested.
I had planned (dreamed) to have a go at snorkelling or diving with the whales. My experience showed me that it is probably pretty easy to slowly get the boat ahead of these beasts and slip in to the water. The dangers relate to the large boats who didn’t seem to mind charging full steam ahead at whales so I hate to imagine the risks they pose to open water diving or snorkelling. However, Sri Lanka is already top of my ‘must come back’ list for this very reason and it was only day 2.
Back on the road it’s clear to see why Sri Lanka is a birders hotspot. A quick stop at the side of the road to let a wagon go past and this Barbet poked his head out of the bushes to have a nosey.
Brown-headed Barbet (megalaima zaylancia caniceps)
After a few hours of amazing landscape including some vast salt pans we arrived at our hotel right on the doorstep of the magnificent Yala National Park. The place that we stayed at has a beach on one side and a jungle on the other (with no fences). No more than 50m away from the front door of our bungalow was a large watering hole surrounded by water buffalo and teaming with crocs. Walking around the lake we were inundated with lizards, birds and monkeys. Always on alert just in case we got too close to the water I started building what is now a bulging collection of bee-eater shots.
Blue-tailed bee-eater (merops philippinus)
The next morning we were up and at the entrance to the park as the gates opened. The weather was forecast to be scorching and after prolonged rains a month earlier, leopards would be tough to spot. We headed straight to one of the major rocky outcrops leopards often frequent followed by a tree with a low hanging branch where a leopard had been spotted the day before. No luck. It wasn’t going to be that easy but with a leopard for every square kilometre, odds were that wouldn’t last too long.
Little green bee-eaters (merops orientalis)
Driving along the miles and miles of roads we were inundated with wildlife including this land monitor emerging from a tree hollow. He probably slept in there over night but you never really know if he hadn’t been hunting.
Land monitor
We stopped off at a watering hole favoured by many of the leopards in the park. Staying here is a pleasure due to the vast array of activity. I sat watching the heron for stalking the reeds for about 10mins before it plucked out a giant toad. Eventually it swallowed in whole without killing it. No bashing the toad like a kingfisher does. Just straight down. I guess it didn’t want to risk loosing such a valuable prize.
Indian Pond Heron with (live) toad
After about 30 minutes we drove on. It was getting close to midday so the chances of seeing a leopard was getting slimmer. We therefore chose to take to seeking out some of the landscapes of Yala and get a chance to take it all in. As we turned the corner to this lake we were faced with what was possibly the happiest elephant on the planet. I’m sure this photo doesn’t do it justice but it just seemed to be smiling from ear to ear whilst eating its way through a monster plate of food.
Possibly the happiest elephant in the world!
Lunchtime and still no leopards. One of those things and after all this is the wild and not a zoo. There is a fantastic picnic spot in Yala next to the river where there’s a 50 strong troop of Torque Macaque who’s diet must consist solely of curry, rice, dahl, sandwiches and any fruit they can lay their hands on. Everything has to be locked in the front of the jeep as they will search every tiny bit of the vehicle not under lock and key.
Baby torque macaque
After lunch we set off on the road again and no sooner than 10 minutes later we turned a corner to see a female wandering in to the bushes with a tiny cub in tow. This was the best shot I got once the car had come to a halt. Sometimes it takes time to convince the drivers that getting right up on top of a leopard isn’t necessary and long lenses do the job fine from a distance. Anyway, we were getting closer. This female was heading through a large area of jungle so we drove around the other side and parked up and waited. After about 45 minutes it was becoming clear that she’d either found a nice place to bed down or had headed another way so off we went again, in search of some more big cats.
Female Leopard (panthera kotiya)
Another day and plenty more bee-eaters (I’ll spare the shots this time). Here’s a shot of a painted stork instead. These birds are akin to feral pigeons in London given their abundance in urban areas but here’s a shot is a slightly more natural environment. 
Painted Stork
Lunch again and another visit from you know who…….
With our picnic all set up we started to tuck in to our rice and dahl when all hell broke loose in the trees. It took me a few seconds for it all to really sink in and although I’m no monkey talk specialist I’ve seen enough Attenborough programmes to know “leopard” when I hear it. The monkeys all ran up the trees and the alpha female charged towards the toilet block. As I ran, camera in hand, the only thing going through my mind was should I remove the 2x or leave it on (I’d been photographing kingfishers on the river). I paused and looked back. The missus was guarding the picnic from the monkeys. This left me with a very tough decision. Get a shot of the large male leopard just the other side of our vehicle or go back and get her (safety in numbers). While I wasn’t concerned about a leopard as they don’t really attack people in the day time I was concerned about leaving her on her own. Girlfriend in tow I headed back to the jeep. The leopard now in the bushes, as surprised by us as we were of it. A very scared frenchman slowly emerged from the toilet. Caught short (literally) by a leopard that I can only assume was sniffing around not expecting any tourists. No photos but an amazing encounter to be savoured. Returning to our picnic blanket there was very little left. They even took my super strength 9% beer that the driver insisted was his favourite kind of beer. Fortunately we weren’t that hungry.
We set off (hearts still pounding) on the search for more leopards. Thanks to an early lunch we seemed to be back on the roads before all the other vehicles and before any of the afternoon traffic. 
It wasn’t long before I was banging on the cab of the driver and we came to a quick halt. On the road in front was a large shape emerging from the jungle. We parked up in the ditch at the side of the road and watched as this leopard headed straight towards us with a warthog piglet dangling from its mouth. There was a strong heat haze from the road and this is a heavy crop but should this leopard decide to use the road as a pathway we were in a prime location. Unfortunately there was an opening about 30m ahead of us and it turned straight in to it. Not a close up but a great shot of a leopard straight after a kill. Moments later an convoy of jeeps poured down this track as the park opened to half day visitors.
After two full days in Yala it was no easy task to spot Leopards. We say five in total (although no good shots) and it was clear from the conversations at the dinning table that we were very lucky with most people not seeing a single one.
The morning after we had to leave early but as the sun rose I headed out to the crocodile filled lake to try and get some bee-eaters in flight. For the first time in the trip the place appeared void of them but this fishing heron made for a great image none the less. 
Indian Pond Heron
On the road again and in to the mountains. Fortunately our driver was more than happy to pull over at every opportunity for a photo…..
Common Kingfisher (alceda atthis taprobana)
Female Common Kestrel (falco tinnunculus objurgatus)
Asian Elephant
Part of Sri Lanka’s many traditions is a form of textile dying known as Batik. The process uses requires the cloth to be repeatedly died using different colours whilst layering wax over the sections of cloth not to be dies. The result is a beautiful mosaic of wax which is then washed off to reveal a very complex pattern or picture. 
Batik with wax still on
Moving on from the wildlife (hard to do) here’s a few shots of the towns
In another hotel we watched a troop of macaques raiding a farmers crop. No idea why the farmer wasn’t home but the monkeys destroyed about three trees full of fruit.
At the rear was this sorry looking fellow. He’d been in a fight and been ‘scalped’. We made enquiries as to whether anything could be done but unfortunately in a developing country where many people struggle there is no real form of RSPCA or otherwise. This is one of the more brutal sides of nature. He still looked in reasonable health but it seems unlikely in a tropical country that the wound would heal by itself. 
On to Dambulla and five amazing caves. All with huge ancient carvings and paintings, all created at differing times in Sri Lanka’s history.
Dambulla cave paintings and carvings
Back to wildlife and an amazing bird of prey. We were on an elephant safari and there must have been at least 10 jeeps drive straight past this bird. Neither our guide or our driver had ever seen a bird quite like this and according to the book they’re reasonably rare. 
Jerdon’s Baza (an unusual name for a magnificent raptor)
Purple Heron
Sigiriya Cave Paintings
The three stooges
On the way back to Colombo you can’t not visit Pinnawala. An elephant sanctuary that looks after orphaned elephants. It’s also a breeding centre but it seems ambiguous as to whether they’re being bred for reintroduction to the wild or whether they’re being bred in order to start more sanctuaries. Never the less, I’ve seen many zoos, sanctuaries and the like around the world and at this place, there is a huge effort to keep the elephants entertained. The day starts with a feed before herding the elephants through the town down to the river for a bathe and a play. 
The elephants love to be mischievous and often sneak off in to the trees at the other side of the river. After observing their movements I’m convinced they did it for the attention and the chase as they were herded back down to the river. The elephant above did everything it could to try and get chased by the handlers before chasing each other around.
After a bath the elephants move back up to the sanctuary through the town. Babies first followed by the larger elephants. This is repeated another two times each day in an attempt to keep the elephants occupied. Although routing this is a significant effort to stimulate what is a large captive herd. Not all was good. The baby feeding was all a little bit ‘sea world’ but I understand that it may be a necessary attraction in order to maintain the financial feasibility of what is a pretty good elephant orphanage.
Final few days in a little place called Ranweli. Beach and mangrove, yeap, many more bird photos.
Wimbrel
Pied Kingfisher 
Indian Pond Heron
Plover
No visit, or indeed photo album, would be complete without a mention of these critters.
Indian Palm Squirrel
Sri Lanka is an incredible wildlife haven and a pleasure to travel around. Although a small island, the roads can mean travelling often takes longer than anticipated. However, here is an island that offers a bot of everything and a lot of wildlife. The new Bali? Well it’s still under debate but it’s definitely up there with one of the best holiday locations we’ve ever visited.
As the knots came in the crowd would build until eventually they ran out of room. One would take off triggering a chain reaction and line of birds would follow suit.
As the crowds increase a number of oystercatchers gradually found themselves engulfed by knots. One individual appeared quite stressed at the situation and started pecking knots at random.
Some of the flocks would circle a few times before joining the back of the queue and starting again. Due to the fog and the poor light I ended up with some pretty abstract shots and below is one that I really liked due to the wing motion and legs just hanging down like landing gear.
However, this was probably my best shot of the day and exactly what I was planning. Shame about the light but this was my first time so chalked up as a reccy. Can’t wait for next year………
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